There are some images of the output and discussion of the \showlists trace in the stackexchange post atbut this plain luatex file\tracingonline1
\showboxdepth10
\immediate\write500{\meaning\Arrowvert}
$\Arrowvert + \Big\Arrowvert\showlists $
\expandafter\show\the\textfont3
\byeproduces the expected || character with pdftex but a { character with luatex even though both claim to be using the same extension font (cmex10)David